Kyrenia Mountains: Castles, Roads and What to Expect
The Kyrenia Mountains hold three crusader castles, forested slopes above the coast and views over the Mesarya Plains. Here is how to see them by car.
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The Kyrenia Mountains form the long, narrow ridge that rises directly behind Kyrenia/Girne, running east to west for about 160 km from Cape Andreas on the Karpaz Peninsula. They are also called the Five Finger Mountains or the Beşparmak range, and they matter to a Kyrenia stay because three crusader castles sit along their crest within easy reach of the coast. For the wider set of things to do in town, see Things to Do in Kyrenia.
This guide covers what the range is, how the castles compare on effort and access, what the approach to Buffavento involves, and how to plan a day's driving between them. Prices, opening hours and seasonal schedules for the castles are announced by their operators, so confirm them before you set out.
What the Kyrenia Mountains are and where they run
The range is a narrow, steep-sided spine of sedimentary rock pushed up by the collision of the African and Eurasian plates, and it extends east to west for around 160 km from Cape Andreas. Because it rises straight from the coastal strip, the mountains are never far from the sea in Kyrenia and form the backdrop to the whole town.
For a visitor based in Kyrenia, the range works as a day's outing rather than a separate trip: the slopes begin a short drive south of the harbour and the passes are reached by road rather than on foot. Kyrenia itself sits below the ridge, with its cobbled streets and small harbour backed by the mountains.
Why the range matters to a Kyrenia stay
The castles along the ridge are the main reason travellers drive up, but they are not isolated monuments: they were built to see and signal to each other across the range. St Hilarion sits to the west and Kantara to the east of Buffavento, and both are visible from Buffavento's summit, which is why the site was used to pass messages along the chain.
Below the ridge, Kyrenia combines the harbour, the castle and the old town in a compact area you can cover on foot. If you want the fuller list of sights before deciding how much time to give the mountains, work through the wider set of Kyrenia attractions, or start with Kyrenia Old Town for the cobbled streets and harbour quarter, and pick your must-sees first.
The three castles at a glance: St Hilarion, Buffavento and Kantara
Buffavento stands at 940 metres and is described as the highest and most inaccessible of the three castles, while Kantara lies furthest east at about 700 metres above sea level. The heights alone tell you what to expect: the higher the castle, the longer and steeper the approach from the car park.
Treat the three as different propositions rather than interchangeable stops: Buffavento is the highest and most inaccessible, so it rewards the fit and those who set out early, while Kantara's lower summit and eastern position suit a longer loop that ends nearer the Karpaz road. Plan one castle properly rather than ticking off all three in a single afternoon.
Kyrenia Castle and the Shipwreck Museum in the harbour town
Kyrenia Castle guards the entrance to the harbour and is the easiest of the fortifications to visit, since it sits in town rather than on a mountain. It began as a Byzantine fortress built to counter Arab raids at sea, and the bulk you see today mostly dates to Venetian rebuilding from around 1489, with the protected gatehouse replacing an earlier drawbridge.
Inside the walls are a cistern, dungeon, two small museums and the Chapel of St George, but the highlight is the walk along the ramparts above the harbour. The castle also houses the Shipwreck Museum, whose display centres on a 4th-century BC Greek merchant ship raised from Cypriot waters between 1967 and 1969, with its original cargo of amphorae, almonds and millstones.
Buffavento Castle: the 15-minute uphill drive, the 20-minute walk and 600 steps
Buffavento is signposted as Buffavento Kalesi off the Beşparmak Pass, and from there an uphill road takes about 15 minutes to a parking area below the castle, marked by a solitary olive tree and a memorial to an aircraft crew. From the parking area a steep but steady walk of around 20 minutes leads to the top, with 600 steps along the way.
Sturdy closed footwear is the practical essential here, and the exposed climb means you should start earlier in the day than you would for the harbour castle. The name means defier of the winds, which is a fair warning about the summit: bring a layer even when Kyrenia itself feels warm.
Driving the range by hire car
A hire car is the realistic way to link the castles, because the passes and castle car parks sit off the coast road. Drive up from Kyrenia towards the Beşparmak Pass for Buffavento and St Hilarion, and allow the full day if you plan to continue east to Kantara.
Cyprus drives on the left, and mountain roads here are narrow with steep gradients, so take the uphill sections slowly and avoid tackling an unfamiliar pass after dark. Check your hire agreement for mountain driving and any cross-Green-Line cover before you leave the coast, and keep the driving legs short enough to leave proper time at each site.
Which castle suits which traveller
If time is short or the heat is heavy, stay in town and give the day to Kyrenia Castle and the harbour, where the walking is level and the shade and museums are close at hand. That choice leaves the mountain castles for a second day rather than squeezing a steep climb into a few hours.
For a single mountain castle, Buffavento is the memorable one but the most demanding: 600 steps and an exposed summit reward anyone comfortable with a stiff climb. Kantara's lower height and eastern position make it the better fit for a longer day out towards the Karpaz, while St Hilarion sits to the west of Buffavento and closest to Kyrenia for a shorter excursion.
Mountain villages and viewpoints along the way
The approaches to the ridge pass through hillside villages where the pace drops and the views open out over the Mesarya Plains below. Bellapais, on its natural terrace in the Five Finger Mountains south of Kyrenia, is the obvious place to break the drive, with its abbey ruins and village lanes worth an hour.
Wherever you stop, the viewpoints are the point: on a clear day the plains, the coast and the castles you have just left line up behind you. Give yourself time to pull over at marked lay-bys rather than stopping on the bends, where sightlines are short.
When to go: heat, wind and exposure on the peaks
The peaks are exposed and windy, which is refreshing in summer but means the climb feels different from the harbour below. In high summer, start early, carry more water than you think you need and plan the climb for the coolest part of the day.
Aim for the cooler months if you want the most comfortable conditions for the steps at Buffavento, when the heat is milder. In winter the summits can be cold and the light short, so keep the driving legs tight and check conditions before committing to the higher castle.
What to wear and carry for the climbs
Closed walking shoes are essential for Buffavento's 600 steps, and the same footwear helps on the uneven stone of Kyrenia Castle's ramparts. Add a windproof layer for the summit, sun protection for the climb and enough water for a two-hour round trip on foot.
Keep valuables light, since the climb is steady rather than technical and you will want your hands free on the upper steps. A torch is handy for the castle interiors in town, where the museum spaces are darker than the open ramparts.
Which castle should you drive to first?
Start with Kyrenia Castle and the Shipwreck Museum on your first day in town, then give a whole day to the mountains once you know how the heat is treating you. For most travellers that means Buffavento if you want the challenge and the view, or Kantara if you would rather spread the drive east.
Final opening hours, entry charges and any seasonal closures are set by the castle operators and change through the year, so check the Visit North Cyprus listings for each site before you set off.
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